Road Trip to Haute Provence, Part 1
Introduction
As Abby grew into a teenager, meaning she finally had enough bladder control for longer trips, we started looking into travel options. We picked Provence because it was lavender season and neither of us had been before. It also seemed like a manageable distance for our first ever road trip with her.
We only planned this about a month in advance, and for peak summer season, that was not nearly enough time. Finding hotels we liked that also accepted dogs was a real challenge. But eventually a six day road trip was booked and we could not have been more excited. This post covers the first three days of our trip.
Getting There
We started our day with a 9am pickup at Europcar in Eaux-Vives, easy to get to and not as crowded as Cornavin. After a quick check-in we were handed the keys to a Volkswagen T-ROC, and just like that the road trip began.
Our first destination was our accommodation in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence region, about four hours from Geneva. Abby was excited in the car at first but eventually settled down. We stopped at a rest stop for her to stretch and go to the bathroom, though all the cars and motorcycles coming in and out stressed her out a little. She barked, but she did what she needed to do. After that it was smooth sailing until we arrived at the hotel in the early afternoon.
Where We Stayed
We stayed at Les Maisons de Chante Oiseau, a secluded property without much around it. They have several different types of accommodation and the studio we stayed in is called The Poulailler.
Despite it being summer, the rooms stay cool because the houses are built from stone. At night the lack of light pollution meant an incredible sky full of stars, and it was wonderfully quiet and peaceful.
A few things worth knowing before you book. You will inevitably find some harmless insects and spiders in the room. You are also required to take out your own trash at checkout, and if you do not read the manual carefully you could be charged extra. The wifi was slow with limited coverage, but that is to be expected when you are up in the mountains. Abby did not mind at all.
Nightly rate was âŹ140 with a tourist tax of âŹ2.20 per night.
What We Did
Day 1
After arriving we headed to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, one of the most beautiful villages in France. It lived up to the reputation and we spotted the famous star hung across the sky above the village.
We had been hoping to see lavender fields but found out that due to the heat, the lavender had been harvested earlier than usual. We did manage to find some fields on the way, which made the drive feel very Provence.
We ended the day with dinner at La Marmite du PĂȘcheur. The outdoor seating was cozy, the food was great, and they even provided a water bowl and mat for Abby without us asking. A great first dinner.
Day 2
The highlight of the trip. We visited the Verdon Gorge and rented an electric boat to explore the canyon. Abby had her own life jacket and got to take a dip in the water. We also parked the boat at a small shore to play fetch with her in the water.
We highly recommend reserving a boat in advance during peak season. We booked through Verdon Ălectronautic which is dog friendly, but note that they do not provide life jackets for dogs so bring your own.
In the evening we visited the town of Forcalquier and had dinner at Restaurant Brasserie Italienne La Cantina. The outdoor terrace was spectacular and the linguine vongole was so good that we tried to come back the next day. Unfortunately it was full without a reservation.
Day 3
We started the morning at Forcalquier's weekly farmers market. Lots of local produce including lavender honey and local hams that you would not find anywhere else.
In the afternoon we visited Roussillon, known for its ochre landscape. We walked the Ochre Trail, a protected natural area that allows dogs on a leash. A ticket is required but it is absolutely worth it. The colors are unlike anything we had seen before.
Traveling with a Dog in Haute Provence
Provence is slow-paced and relaxed, and I cannot imagine any dog not enjoying it. In the summer months it can get quite hot during the day so always carry water with you to keep your dog cool. Overall Provence is quite dog friendly, and we rarely felt unwelcome anywhere with Abby.
Final Thoughts
Provence is what France looks like in my head. Many people have a bad impression of France, but the south never disappoints.
Follow for part 2 here.